The lightness slider underneath the image helps you see and check detail in the HDR image. There is a magnifier at the bottom right of the reference image if you want to check who these setting are being applied. Different lenses and lighting will give different effects, I have found more the upper slider to remove red effects and the bottom slider a little less towards the blue works well for most of the photos taken with my Pentax camera and Tamron lens combination. tree silhouettes against the sky) because the HDR process can over emphasise this effect. The final artefact (step5) is chromatic aberration (coloured fringes at the edge if strongly contrasting parts of the photo, eg. Whilst I’m sure this step takes time, I just leave them always on, as it has no impact that I can find when there is no movement. The strength of 100% is the default but allows you to soften the degrees to which ghost removal is undertaken. The grey frame around the upper photo indicated the photo that will be used as the ghost removal reference. Ghost removal (step4) which searches for and removes ghost images associated with things (usually people) that move between the three exposures. This include aligning photos (step 3) when taking the HDR handheld, this is the default so no action is required unless you had previously turned it off. This occurs in two parts, the first is the Merge Dialogue, which offer three ways to avoid common artefacts and problems when taking multiple photos. Lightroom will take a little while to export these three files and then start up Nik HDR merge. So instead on the Edit-in tool I need to use the export function and the option google/HDR Efex Pro 2 Whilst lightroom has a mechanism to transfer photo out to plug-ins it can only transfer a single image at a time. This give me three exposures, one underexposed, one close to best exposure and one over exposed.įor the first example I’m using Nik software’s (now google’s)HDR Efex Pro 2 plug in via Lightroom. Just three steps of ± 1.0 EV seem to suit a more restrained HDR approach. I have experimented with the number and magnitude of the EV steps. I start most of my HDR work the same way, using the bracketing on my DLSR. I’ll be doing it in four different four ways, starting with my current most favoured approach, using Lightroom and Nik HDR Efex Pro 2 Whilst I am definitely not in favour of setting fixed methods (workflows) for others to follow I figure it would be worthwhile to outline the steps I take to produced HDR images.
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